Sicily
Sicily is truly the hidden gem of Italy! A sun-drenched island in the heart of the Mediterranean, known for its dramatic landscapes, ancient ruins, and vibrant culture. From Mount Etna’s fiery slopes to Palermo’s bustling markets, it’s a place where history, flavor, and beauty intertwine. See my personal take on Sicily on my blog page here.
| Day | Highlights | Overnight |
|---|---|---|
| Day 1 | This is the travel day. Getting to the airport and taking an overnight flight to Rome. | In flight |
| Day 2 | Arriving in Rome and take an hour flight to Palermo, Sicily. | Palermo |
| Day 3 | Exploring Palermo by foot. | Palermo |
| Day 4 | Leave Palermo by train to Cefalu. Wander the old town of Cefalu. | Cefalu |
| Day 5 | Visit the Cathedral and enjoy the town and beach in Cefalu. | Cefalu |
| Day 6 | Leave Cefalu by train and arrive in Milazzo. Embark on a hydrofoil ferry to the island of Lipari. | Lipari |
| Day 7 | Rent mopeds and explore the island of Lipari. Sunset at Winery at Tunita de Castrello | Lipari |
| Day 8 | Swim on the volcanic beaches of Lipari and take a boat tour to the planet's most active volcano, Stromboli. | Lipari |
| Day 9 | Head back to the mainland via hydrofoil and take the train to Taormina. Wander through the Villa Communale. | Taormina |
| Day 10 | Visit the Teatro Greco. In the afternoon take the cable car down to the beach and explore the tiny island of Isola Bella. | Taormina |
| Day 11 | Visit the towns of Savoca and Castelmola. | Taormina |
| Day 12 | Leave Taormina by train and arrive in Catania. Explore Catania. | Catania |
| Day 13 | Tour of Mount Etna, Europe's tallest volcano. | Catania |
| Day 14 | Rent a car in Catania and drive to Ortigia. | Ortigia |
| Day 15 | Enjoy a day at Fontane Bianche Beach. Dinner back in Ortigia. | Ortigia |
| Day 16 | Visit the Castello Maniace in Ortigia. Drive to the town of Noto in the afternoon. Dinner in Ortigia. | Ortigia |
| Day 17 | Drive to Ragusa on the way stop at beach club for lunch (Carizza Maganuco Beach Club). Exploring Ragusa. | Ragusa |
| Day 18 | Day to relax in Ragusa. | Ragusa |
| Day 19 | Drive to Scalia dei Turchi in the morning. Lunch near the beach. Afternoon at Valley for the Temples in Agrigento | Agrigento |
| Day 20 | Drive from Agrigento to Catania airport. Return car. Fly to Rome. Train to Rome Central. | Rome |
| Day 21 | Explore your favourite sites in Rome by foot. | Rome |
| Day 22 | Taxi to train station in Rome Central. Train to Rome Airport. Flight to home. |
Day 1 - Travel Day
We flew overnight on a transatlantic flight to Rome, Italy.
Day 2 - Palermo, Sicily
Boarded a flight to Palermo, Sicily via Ryanair. Upon landing, we took a shared ride into the city centre. We opted for a shared ride as we read that it is the best way to get to Palermo, and saw on many posts and YouTube videos that taxi pricing can vary and change during your taxi trip. The shared ride was an easy, quick and inexpensive way to get to the centre of Palermo. For private transfers, Welcome Pickups is a reliable service that you book and pay for in advance. I highly recommend staying close to Via Maqueda, the main walking street in Palermo. From Via Maqueda, you can easily walk to the main sites of Palermo. Spend the afternoon resting and have your first aperitivo of the trip in one of the many bars and restaurants along Via Maqueda or at the Ambassador Hotel for a view of the city from the rooftop bar. Recommended hotels are:
Ambasciatori Hotel - Beautiful 4 star hotel with fantastic roof top restaurant, about a 7 minute walk to Quattro Canti
Hotel Plaza Opera - Beautiful 4 star hotel, about an 8 minute walk to Teatro Massimo. Also with a fantastic roof top restaurant.
Food Tip 🍰: Start your Sicilian food indulgence and have your first cannoli - Sicilian pastries consisting of tube-shaped shells of fried pastry dough, filled with a sweet, creamy filling usually made from ricotta cheese.
Travel Tip: Parking in Sicilian towns can be challenging, so taking the commuter train is often the easiest and most stress-free way to explore the coastal areas. Tickets can be purchased at the station using self-service kiosks or conveniently booked online. The Trenitalia website makes the process simple and efficient, allowing you to plan your journeys in advance with ease.
Day 3 - Palermo
In Palermo, Sicily’s vibrant capital on the northern coast, layers of Arab, Norman, and Italian history come alive in a rich tapestry of architecture, cuisine, and culture. Golden mosaics shimmer inside the Palatine Chapel, while the hum of daily life spills through lively street markets and along sunlit seaside boulevards. There’s an energy here that feels both ancient and unmistakably modern. Spend the day wandering its atmospheric streets, pausing for an espresso or aperitivo, and discovering the city’s most iconic sights at your own pace—each turn revealing a new story, a new flavor, and a new reason to fall in love with Palermo:
Palazzo dei Normanni & Cappella Palatina -Explore the royal palace and the dazzling golden mosaics in the chapel — Palermo’s crown jewel.
Palermo Cathedral (Cattedrale di Palermo) - Climb to the rooftop for sweeping views of the city and mountains.
Villa Bonanno - a peaceful park near the Palermo Cathedral.
Ballarò Market - the famous Palermo food market. Sample arancine, panelle, and cannoli while wandering the vibrant stalls.
Quattro Canti - The historic centre of the city. The heart of old Palermo — grand Baroque facades, fountains, and energy all around.
Piazza Pretoria - The famous statue of nudes, also known as the ‘fountain of shame’, where many homes were destroyed to make room for this statue causing a negative reaction from the public.
Palermo Harbour - a bit out of the way, but still within walking distance. Close to the water’s edge observe the famous mural of anti-mafia prosecutors.
Teatro Massimo - One of the largest opera houses in Europe, where the famous stair scene of the Godfather was filmed.
Day 4 - Cefalu.
Less than an hour from Palermo by train lies the enchanting seaside town of Cefalù—a place where golden beaches, medieval streets, and timeless Sicilian charm come together effortlessly. Dominated by its magnificent Norman cathedral, Cefalù Cathedral, the town feels both intimate and grand, with history woven into every stone.
For a truly immersive experience, stay within the old town, where life unfolds among a labyrinth of narrow cobblestone streets. Sun-warmed buildings, wrought-iron balconies, and laundry drifting between windows create a scene that feels unchanged by time. Aim for an apartment or boutique hotel near Via Viterani—close enough to the heart of it all, yet just removed from the livelier stretches.
Recommended stays:
Arrive, settle in, and let the rhythm of Cefalù guide you. Wander without a plan, discovering tucked-away shops, quiet corners, and glimpses of the sea between ancient walls. If your stay includes a balcony, pause for a simple pleasure: a bottle of local wine, warm evening air, and the quiet realization that you’ve found one of Sicily’s most captivating corners—before heading out to dinner as the town begins to glow.
Day 5 - Cefalu.
A day to explore Cefalu. Don’t miss these sights:
Cefalù Cathedral (Duomo di Cefalù): A magnificent Norman cathedral with twin towers and stunning Byzantine mosaics. Don’t miss the rooftop of Cathedral for stunning views of the town, sea and inside the chapel.
La Rocca: A steep hike leads to panoramic views and ancient ruins, including the Temple of Diana.
Old Town (Centro Storico): Wander through medieval lanes, charming piazzas, and lively markets filled with local flavor.
Bastione di Capo Marchiafava is a historic coastal bastion located at the edge of Cefalù’s old town, built as part of the town’s defensive walls. Today, it’s a scenic viewpoint perched above the sea, offering panoramic views of the Tyrrhenian coastline and the rugged cliffs below—an ideal spot to watch the sunset or take photos of Cefalù’s stunning seaside landscape.
Lavatoio Medievale: A beautifully preserved medieval washhouse carved into rock and fed by natural springs.
Lungomare Beach: A golden stretch of sand perfect for swimming and sunset strolls along the promenade. This beach also has a touch of Hollywood fame—it appeared as “the beach” in The White Lotus Season 2. While the series’ hotel scenes were filmed in Taormina, there’s no beach directly by the hotel, so this picturesque shoreline in Cefalù served as its stand-in.
Museo Mandralisca: A small but fascinating museum featuring art, archaeology, and the famous Portrait of an Unknown Man by Antonello da Messina.
Watch the spectacular sunset by Largo Eroi del Mare by the pier of the Old Town.
Food tip🍦 - there is wonderful bakery/gelateria in front of Duomo di Cefalu called Duomo Serio 1952. Have a traditional Sicilian break there which consists of a brioche and granita before exploring the Duomo. In the evening enjoy a gelato, and let me know if they still have a gelato called ‘Greta’.
Day 6- Lipari
Take the train from Cefalu to Milazzo, a port town where you can board the hydrofoil to the island of Lipari. Depending on where you are staying in Cefalu you could walk to the train station or take a taxi. Once reaching Milazzo, there is public bus that will take you to the port.
Lipari is the largest and liveliest of the Aeolian Islands, located off the northern coast of Sicily in the Tyrrhenian Sea. It’s known for its volcanic landscapes, charming old town, and role as the hub for exploring the surrounding islands. We stayed at the beautiful hotel Hotel Villa Enrica - Aeolian Charme boasting panoramic views of Lipari town. We quickly found out though that while the town appears to be close to the hotel, it’s quiet a walk uphill. Shortly after arriving we opted for renting scouters to get around for the next few days.
In the evening we went into Lipari town. Lipari town is the lively heart of the Aeolian Islands—small, sun-washed, and effortlessly charming. It rises straight from the sea with pastel houses, a busy little port, and a dramatic hilltop Castello di Lipari watching over everything like an old guardian.
Day 7 - Lipari
The morning was spent exploring some of Lipari’s beaches. The evening was spent admiring the Tyrrhenian Sea sunset views by visiting the Tenuta di Castellaro winery at sunset. Reservations are required.
Day 8 - Lipari
Throughout Lipari town you’ll see many tour operators offering boat cruises to the surrounding islands. One of those island is Stromboli. Stromboli is called the ‘lighthouse of the Mediterranean’. It’s one of the most dramatic and unforgettable islands in the Aeolian chain—a tiny, conical volcano rising straight out of the Tyrrhenian Sea. It’s famous for its persistent volcanic activity, its black‑sand beaches, and its two charming villages that feel wonderfully remote. Its eruptions are typically small but frequent bursts of glowing lava—known as Strombolian activity—that shoot from vents inside the summit crater.
Travel Tip: Before you travel to Stromoli, I highly recommend watching the 1950’s movie called ‘Stromboli’, as it’s set on the real island of Stromboli. It’s a post‑war drama about a displaced woman who marries an Italian fisherman to escape a refugee camp, only to find herself trapped in a harsh, isolated life on the volcanic island of Stromboli. It blends personal crisis with the raw power of the island’s active volcano. It’s directed by Roberto Rossellini and stars Ingrid Bergman. Also worth watching is Kylie Flavell’s, YouTube post about Stromboli. Kylie is a magnificent storyteller and creates high-quality travel films and YouTube content.
Day 9- Taormina
Reverse course from getting to Lipari. Take the hydrofoil back to Milazzo, at Milazzo port take the bus or taxi back to the train station. At the train station or on the mobile app purchase tickets to Messina. Once you arrive at Messina, you’ll need to change trains and purchase a ticket for Taormina. Once you arrive at Taormina-Giardini train station you’ll need to get up the mountain to the centre of town. Taormina has reliable public transportation from the Taormina‑Giardini train station to the town center. The main option is the Interbus service, which runs frequently and takes about 10–15 minutes to reach Taormina’s bus terminal.
Perched high above the Ionian Sea, Taormina is one of Sicily’s most breathtaking destinations—a hilltop town where dramatic landscapes and timeless elegance converge. From its terraces, sweeping views stretch across the coastline to Mount Etna, Europe’s highest active volcano, while the shimmering waters of the Ionian Sea glisten below. Often described as the embodiment of la dolce vita in Sicily, Taormina blends natural beauty with refined charm and has recently gained global attention as a primary filming location for The White Lotus.
Built into the mountainside, Taormina is a town of winding lanes and countless staircases, where every turn reveals another postcard-perfect view. As you plan your stay, keep in mind the steep terrain—choosing the right location can make all the difference in how you experience this unforgettable destination.
We stayed in a beautiful AirBnb set about 360 steps above Corso Umberto, giving us a peaceful perch over the heart of Taormina. From the terrace, we had sweeping views of Mount Etna and the Bay of Giardini‑Naxos, and during our stay we were lucky enough to watch Etna’s lava glowing in the distance — an unforgettable sight right from our apartment.
This day was spent exploring the streets of Taormina and a visit to Villa Communale, a lush and nicely keep outdoor garden with sweeping sea views.
Travel Tip: If you are looking to go to the beach that was shown in White Lotus Season 2, the one that is ‘part of the hotel’ in the show, it is not located in Taormina. The beach from the show is actually located in Cefalu.
Day 10 - Taormina
Morning - Visit the Greek Theatre of Taormina. The Greek Theatre in Taormina is one of those places that feels almost unreal when you’re standing in it. Carved into the hillside in the 3rd century BC, it perfectly frames Mount Etna on one side and the Ionian Sea on the other—arguably the most dramatic theatre backdrop in the world.
What makes it special isn’t just its age or beauty, but that it’s still alive. The theatre hosts concerts, opera, and film festivals, just as it did in ancient times, with acoustics so good you can hear a whisper from the stage. As the sun sets and Etna smolders in the distance, it’s hard not to feel like Taormina’s entire history—Greek, Roman, and Sicilian—has gathered in one breathtaking spot.
Afternoon - Beach time, take the cable car down to the Isola Bella and the beach. Isola Bella is Taormina’s little slice of magic—a tiny island that feels half wild, half dream. It’s connected to the mainland by a thin strip of pebbled beach that disappears when the tide comes in, so it sometimes looks like it’s floating in the Ionian Sea.
Once the private retreat of an eccentric English aristocrat, it’s now a protected nature reserve, covered in Mediterranean plants and surrounded by shockingly clear turquoise water. Whether you’re swimming, snorkeling, or just staring at it from above, Isola Bella has that quiet, cinematic beauty that makes you slow down and think, yes… this is why people fall in love with Sicily.
Food Tip 🍝 Don’t miss picking up an arancino at the place locals go, Rosticceria Da Cristina, on the way to the ancient Greek theatre.
Day 11 - Taormina
A visit to a couple of towns near Taormina:
Savoca. Most people know Savoca because The Godfather was filmed here — you can still sit at Bar Vitelli, unchanged and dripping with old-world charm. But even without the movie lore, the town feels timeless: medieval churches, crumbling palazzi, and a peaceful, almost sacred stillness once the day-trippers leave. It’s the kind of place where life moves slowly, bells echo, and you feel like Sicily is whispering its secrets rather than shouting them.
Castelmola is a charming, medieval hilltop village located just above Taormina. Renowned as one of Italy's most beautiful villages ("I Borghi più belli d'Italia"), it offers breathtaking panoramic views of Mount Etna, the Ionian Sea, and the coastline.
Day 12 - Catania
Sprawling at the foot of Mount Etna on Sicily's eastern coast, Catania is a city of raw, elemental energy — brooding, beautiful, and unlike anywhere else in Italy. It has been buried by lava and leveled by earthquakes, most catastrophically in 1693, and rebuilt each time. That rebuilding gave the city its defining character: a sweeping baroque cityscape constructed almost entirely from dark volcanic lava stone, which gives Catania a dramatic, slightly gothic grandeur that stands in vivid contrast to the brilliant Mediterranean sunlight. It is a working city, gritty and authentic, with world-class street food, markets, and a passionate local culture less diluted by tourism than Taormina or Palermo. Presiding over everything — seen from almost every rooftop and piazza — is Etna herself, smoldering and magnificent, an ever-present reminder that this city exists at the pleasure of a volcano.
In Catania we stayed at this beautiful AirBnB with frescoed tall ceilings in a historic square that overlooked the street called Via Etna, a centrally located street for doing almost anything from. In the evening this street turns into a bustling pedestrian street.
Food Tip🍝 There are numerous great places to eat along Via Etna and on our 2nd night we accidently stumbled on a restaurant alley a few blocks east of Via Etna, on Via Santa Filomena. Via Santa Filomena is one of Catania’s most atmospheric little streets — a short, lively, food‑centric lane in the historic center, famous for its string lights, tightly packed restaurants, and vibrant evening energy. It’s essentially Catania’s unofficial “food district,” where locals and travelers gather for casual bites, creative Sicilian dishes, and a warm, convivial vibe.
Food Tip 🍝 While in Catania, don't miss Pasta alla Norma — Sicily's most soulful dish, and symbolism of the city of Catania and the volcano that looms over the city. The dark eggplant represents the brooding slopes of Mt. Etna; the tomatoes represent the lava, the basil represents the lushy greenery around Etna, the topping of ricotta salata, represents the snow caped Etna. Simple ingredients. A bowl that tells the whole story of Sicily. The origins of the dish stem from an opera, La Norma.
What to see in Catania:
Morning Start in Piazza del Duomo, Catania's magnificent central square and one of the finest baroque ensembles in Italy. At its center stands the city's beloved symbol, the Fontana dell'Elefante — an ancient lava-stone elephant topped with an Egyptian obelisk, dating to Roman times. Surrounding it are grand baroque palaces and the Catania Cathedral (Duomo di Sant'Agata), dedicated to the city's patron saint and housing the tomb of composer Vincenzo Bellini, Catania's most famous son.
Roman Amphitheater on Piazza Stesicoro, one of the largest in the Roman world, its massive ruins dramatically half-buried beneath the modern city. Nearby, visit the Odeon, a smaller Roman theater hidden in a residential neighborhood, remarkably intact.
Ancient Theatre of Catania, this theater is believed to have been built in the 2nd century BC by the Greeks.
Afternoon, Explore the Monastery of San Nicolò l'Arena — one of the largest baroque monasteries in Europe, now part of the University of Catania. Its unfinished facade is hauntingly beautiful, and the interior courtyards, library, and sundial corridor are extraordinary. Next door, peer into the vast, cavernous interior of San Nicolò all'Arena, the biggest church in Sicily.
Evening Head to the Piazza Teatro Massimo area for an aperitivo, then enjoy dinner in one of the trattorias around the Piazza Federico di Svevia, feasting on pasta alla Norma.
Day 13: Catania, continue exploring Catania and Mt. Etna:
Morning:
Plunge into La Pescheria, the extraordinary fish market that erupts into life behind the Duomo each morning. One of the most theatrical markets in Europe, it is a visceral spectacle of swordfish, tuna, sea urchins, eels, and shellfish piled high on marble slabs, with vendors hollering in thick Sicilian dialect. Don't miss picking up an arancino or a stigghiola from a street vendor on the way out.
Take a half-day excursion up Mount Etna. Whether you join a guided tour, take the Circumetnea railway around its base, or ride the cable car toward the summit craters, getting up close to Europe's most active volcano is an unforgettable experience. The views from the upper slopes — across the entire eastern coast of Sicily to the sea — are staggering. Along Via Etna, you’ll find many tour companies offering tours to Mt. Etna.
Evening Return to the city and end your two days in Catania the way locals do: a passeggiata along Via Etna as the sun sets, followed by dinner on Via Santa Filomena.
Day 14 - Ortigia
Up until this point, the trip had unfolded entirely on trains, ferries, and the occasional taxi — a wonderfully unhurried way to travel through Sicily. Even our next destination of Ortigia is reachable by train, keeping the car-free streak alive a little longer. But with more remote places now on the itinerary — beyond the reach of the main rail line — having our own car had become a practical necessity. We took a taxi to Catania Airport and picked up a rental car through Sicily by Car, which we rented in advance on booking.com. Sicily by Car, a local agency that proved straightforward and reliable.
The drive to Ortigia was easy, but it's worth knowing that the island itself is closed to outside traffic — no cars beyond the bridge. We found parking in one of the main lots on the right-hand side immediately after crossing over, which turned out to be a perfectly convenient base for exploring the island on foot, as it deserves to be explored.
I absolutely loved Ortigia. A small island barely a kilometer wide, Ortigia is the ancient heart of Syracuse on Sicily's southeastern coast, connected to the modern city by a pair of short bridges yet feeling like an entirely separate world. Settled by Greek colonists in 734 BC, it is one of the oldest continuously inhabited places in the Western world, and its layered history reveals itself at every turn — a fifth-century BC Greek temple whose columns are embedded into the walls of the baroque Cathedral, Norman palaces overlooking the sea, and labyrinthine medieval alleyways that open without warning onto grand piazzas bathed in honey-golden light. At its tip lies the celebrated Fonte Aretusa, a freshwater spring mere steps from the saltwater sea, steeped in Greek mythology and still home to papyrus plants and ducks. The island's waterfront, the Lungomare, offers sweeping views of the sparkling Ionian coast, while its trattorias and fish markets burst with the flavors of Sicilian cuisine at its finest. Romantic, atmospheric, and saturated with antiquity, Ortigia is one of those rare places that feels both timelessly ancient and vibrantly alive.
Travel Tip: Ortigia was my inspiration for travelling to Sicily. After watching the movie Malena, I was intrigued by the square/piazza in the movie. Many of the scenes are filmed in Ortigia, and after doing lots of research on Sicily, it became our first trip post the covid pandemic. Highly recommend watching the movie Malena. More about this can be found in my other posts:
Where to stay in Ortigia? You're spoiled for choice. The island is dotted with small boutique hotels and beautifully renovated apartments that pair contemporary interiors with centuries-old exteriors — the kind of places where you fall asleep under a vaulted stone ceiling and wake up to church bells. And because Ortigia is so compact, location is almost a non-issue; everywhere is a short stroll from everywhere else.
That said, where you stay absolutely sets the tone for your experience, and we struck gold. Our apartment was a beautifully renovated space positioned right beside Fonte Aretusa — one of the most mythologically storied spots on the island — with the legendary freshwater spring and the glittering harbor as our front-row view. It was, in a word, epic. The one honest caveat: the location is lively, and the sound of the city drifts in through the windows. But for a setting that extraordinary, it was a trade-off we'd make again without hesitation.
What to see in Ortigia
Fonte Aretusa — A legendary freshwater spring on the edge of the sea, this natural marvel is tied to the Greek myth of the nymph Arethusa. Today it's a tranquil garden pool filled with papyrus, ducks, and koi, just steps from the crashing waves of the harbor.
Piazza del Duomo — Widely considered one of the most beautiful baroque squares in Italy, this grand, elongated piazza is flanked by elegant palaces and the Cathedral, and is the social and architectural heart of Ortigia.
Castle of Maniace (Castello Maniace) — A formidable 13th-century Hohenstaufen fortress sitting at the very tip of the island, offering dramatic views over the sea in three directions and a fascinating glimpse into Sicily's medieval Norman heritage. Note, tickets are required and are typically purchase at the entrance.
Temple of Apollo — The oldest Doric temple in Sicily, dating to the early 7th century BC, its weathered ruins sit in an open square near the entrance to the island — a striking and evocative reminder of Ortigia's ancient Greek origins.
Lungomare Alfeo & the Sea Walls— A walk along Ortigia's rocky seafront promenade rewards visitors with stunning views of the open Ionian Sea, dramatic limestone cliffs, and the sight of locals diving into crystal-clear waters — the perfect way to absorb the island's unhurried, sun-soaked atmosphere and go for a swim.
Get lost, although not really possible because its a very small island. Wander through the narrow alleyways and the piazzas. Enjoy the early morning hues in the main piazza with a cornetto and an espresso and just absorb the history of this epic city.
Day 15- Ortigia
Continue to explore Ortigia:
Cathedral of Syracuse (Duomo) — One of Sicily’s most extraordinary churches, this Baroque masterpiece is built directly around the standing columns of a 5th‑century BC Greek Temple of Athena — a seamless blend of nearly 2,700 years of history. Tickets are purchased at the front entrance.
Ortigia Fish Market (Mercato di Ortigia) — A feast for all the senses, this vibrant morning market near the port overflows with the day's catch of swordfish, sea urchins, octopus, and clams, surrounded by mountains of fresh produce, spices, and the lively chatter of vendors and locals.
Castle of Maniace (Castello Maniace) — A formidable 13th-century Hohenstaufen fortress sitting at the very tip of the island, offering dramatic views over the sea in three directions and a fascinating glimpse into Sicily's medieval Norman heritage. Note, tickets are required and are typically purchase at the entrance.
2 options for the afternoon:
Walk to take a taxi over the bridges into the city of Siracusa. Ancient Greek city — and one of the most important archaeological sites in Italy.
Don’t miss
Greek Theatre Still used for performances today.
Ear of Dionysius A huge cave with incredible acoustics.
Roman Amphitheatre Impressive ruins surrounded by greenery.
Get into the car and drive to a nearby beach south of Ortigia such as Fontane Bianche, or stay in Ortigia and sunbath and swim at the swimming platforms - a unique and memorable experience!
Where to eat in Ortigia? The choices are endless and the atmosphere is like a fairy tale-wandering through narrow alleys where lanterns flicker against honey‑colored stone, each turn revealing another tiny trattoria spilling its tables into the street.
Food Tip 🍝 2 places we visited that I personally recommend based on the food and atmosphere:
Vicchio Pub 1979. In the back there is lovely garden with large trees, creating again a fairy tale atmosphere, with string lights throughout.
Lafoglia. Rustic, deeply Sicilian dishes arrived from a family kitchen. The restaurant used to be their family home and their antique family furniture throughout the dining room. It was intimate, genuine, and delicious in that way only true family restaurants manage to be. I ordered the meatballs, and after I told the owner how wonderful they were, the lovely woman from the kitchen came out to share her recipe with me — her husband standing beside her, translating with pride. It was one of those small, unforgettable moments that make a meal into a memory. They stay busy, so a reservation is essential.
Day 16- Ortigia & Noto
Road trip to Noto. Only 40 minutes from Ortigia. It makes a perfect half-day trip — go in the late afternoon, when the light on the stone is at its most dramatic, stroll the corso, eat granita, and linger over an aperitivo before the drive back.
Noto is one of the most beautiful small towns in all of Sicily — and possibly in all of Italy. Here's what makes it special:
Born from catastrophe. The original Noto was completely destroyed by the catastrophic earthquake of 1693, which leveled much of southeastern Sicily. Rather than rebuild on the ruins, the decision was made to start entirely from scratch on a new site nearby. That blank slate produced something extraordinary.
A city designed as theatre. The architects who rebuilt Noto in the early 18th century designed the whole city as a single, unified statement — honey-coloured limestone palaces, sweeping staircases, ornate balconies dripping with carved faces, cherubs, and grotesque figures. Walking the main corso, Corso Vittorio Emanuele, feels less like a street and more like a stage set. At golden hour, the stone glows amber and the whole town seems to be lit from within.
UNESCO gold. Noto is a UNESCO World Heritage Site, recognized as the finest example of Sicilian Baroque anywhere. The cathedral, which famously collapsed in 1996 and was painstakingly rebuilt over a decade, anchors the main piazza and is worth lingering in front of.
Granita capital. Noto also has a strong claim to producing the best granita in Sicily — particularly the almond and mulberry varieties. Caffè Sicilia on the Corso is legendary, a century-old institution that has been exporting the flavours of this corner of Sicily to the world.
Travel Tip: If you need any more reason to fall in love with this corner of Sicily, look up Cyrano (2021) — the musical starring Peter Dinklage. It's a quietly beautiful film: a sweeping, bittersweet love story set to original music, and much of it was shot right here in Ortigia and Noto. The Castello Maniace in Ortigia and the Church of Saint Francis of Assisi staircase of Noto serve as some of backdrops, and from my experience, watching the film before — and after — your visit gives the places an entirely different kind of magic.
Day 17 - Ragusa
After leaving Ortigia, we headed for Ragusa. On the way to Ragusa we decided some beach time was needed. We stopped at Spiaggia di Marina di Ragusa for a swim and lunch, and afterwards headed up to lovely town of Ragusa.
Ragusa is one of Sicily’s most atmospheric and visually striking towns—a place where history, architecture, and slow Mediterranean life all come together. Ragusa is famously divided into:
Ragusa Ibla – the old town, a maze of winding alleys, staircases, and honey-colored Baroque buildings cascading down a hill
Ragusa Superiore – the newer, more modern upper town built after a devastating earthquake in 1693
Where to stay in Ragusa? We like old towns, and opted for Ragusa Ibla, and again had an epic location with this apartment right in front of the crown jewel of Ragusa Ilba.
The contrast between Ragusa Ilba and Ragusa Superiore gives Ragusa a layered, almost cinematic feel. If you’re visiting Ragusa, the magic is really in wandering—but there are some must-see spots that make the experience unforgettable. First just familiarize yourself with the 2 towns, andwander Ragusa Ibla, no map needed - just explore:
Narrow alleys, staircases, hidden courtyards
Iconic Baroque balconies with carved faces and figures
Endless photo spots around every corner
Day 18 - Ragusa
Continue to explore Ragusa and the timeless views of the valley.
1 Duomo di San Giorgio, the crown jewel of Ragusa Ibla.
Grand staircase leading up to a stunning Baroque façade
Beautiful interior with a peaceful, reverent atmosphere
Best seen at sunset when the stone glows golden
2 Giardino Ibleo, a quiet garden at the edge of the old town.
Shaded paths, palm trees, and benches
Panoramic valley views
A perfect break from walking the steep streets
Day 18 - Scala dei Turchi and Agrigento
The final day is about pairing coastal drama + ancient history, a perfect ways to end a Sicily trip. Leave Ragusa early, and make the most of Scala dei Turchi and Agrigento.
Before heading down to the beach at Scala dei Turchi, pause for an early lunch at RistoBar Acanthus Scala dei Turchi and take in the sweeping views of the white cliffs and sea.
Scala dei Turchi s one of Sicily’s most striking natural landmarks—a brilliant white, wave-shaped cliff rising along the southern coast near Agrigento. It’s a natural formation made of marl (a soft limestone), sculpted over time by wind and sea into smooth, curved “steps” that look almost like a giant staircase flowing into the ocean. The rock is protected, so access is restricted. The beach however is available and you can see great views of the Scala dei Turchi.
We chose to see the ruins of Agrigento late afternoon to try to avoid the afternoon heat, this gave us time to check-in to our stunning hotel, get cleaned up from the beach before heading to the ruins of Agrigento.
Agrigento is a historic city on Sicily’s southern coast, best known for its extraordinary ancient ruins and sweeping views over the Mediterranean. Its global reputation comes from the nearby Valley of the Temples, a vast UNESCO-listed site featuring remarkably preserved ancient Greek temples. This area was once the powerful Greek city of Akragas, founded in the 6th century BCE, and it became one of the most important cities in the ancient world. You can purchase tickets in advance for the Valley of the Temples, but depending on when you are visiting it may not be necessary.
Day 19 - Rome
This was a fantastic journey through Sicily. Sicily, a rich blend of history, beauty, scenery and unforgettable flavors! Unfortunately it was time leave. There are 2 cities which you can take a flight back to Rome; Palermo or Catania. We chose Catania since this is where we rented the car. After leaving Sicily we spent a few days in Rome before heading home.